George Kahumoku Jr.: Making connections and sharing aloha
Four-time Grammy Award winner George Kahumoku Jr. plays a tune at sunset at Napili Bay.
Story and photos
By MATTHEW THAYER
George Kahumoku Jr. may not have been the strongest or healthiest in his family, nor even its best musician, but his innate curiosity, ingenuity and a burning desire to “find a need and fill it” have led him to heights few would have predicted.
The four-time Grammy Award winner says it’s all about making connections. His relationships with the land, sea and thousands of people he has shared his aloha with through the years have opened opportunities around the world. Not bad for a sickly underdog raised by his grandparents alongside 26 cousins.
With so many colorful twists and turns in Kahumoku’s life story, it is difficult to choose where to start. Do we begin with his tale of a private visit with Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II? How she revealed that the first George Kahumoku was a heroic Hawaiian stowaway on a British sailing ship? Or how a later great-grandfather was one of the first Hawaiians to receive a guitar from Spanish cowboys and thus helped lay the foundation for the music genre known as slack key? Or maybe how Nona Beamer dubbed the celebrated Maui storyteller, musician, farmer, teacher and artist “Hawaii’s Renaissance Man” in honor of his willingness to connect traditional Hawaiian techniques with modern science?
Kahumoku picks a papaya on his Kahakuloa farm. The three-acre farm features a wide variety of crops including 30 types of avocado trees, 35 of banana, Hawaiian medicinal plants and herbs. With the assistance of volunteers and paid help, Kahumoku says the farm produces between 500-1,500 pounds of food a week.
Kahumoku has had so many varied careers and experiences, perhaps it is best to harken back to the early days when he was a small child at his grandmother’s knee.
“When I was young, I was really sickly,” Kahumoku said during a recent interview on his remote Kahakuloa farm. “I had asthma. My grandmother wouldn’t let me go out and work.”
While he longed to be with his cousins doing his share, his grandmother kept him busy inside, and in doing so, bestowed him the gift of Hawaiian language.
Wife Nancy Kahumoku shades George Kahumoku with an umbrella as they ride in Kihei's Whale Day Parade in 2010. On display with them is one of the four Grammy Awards he won. Nancy, the sister of the late pianist George Winston, is a driving force behind the career of husband George. “She handles airfare, marketing, branding and doing all the stuff I don't want to do," George Kahumoku said. "I don't want to do paperwork. The only thing I want to do (with paper) is draw or write."
“Most of the time they were the guys outside working hard and I was inside close by my grandmother. In a sense, by being close by my grandmother, she made me read the Bible to her all the time. So there I was reading the Bible in Hawaiian and not knowing I’m learning the language.”
Once he was set loose upon the neighborhood, Kahumoku began cooking up ways to earn money.
“I always felt I had to do more, you know, I always have to push it.”
From mowing lawns and cleaning used cars as a child, to going door to door at age 16 to hawk the services of an Oahu roofing company, Kahumoku displayed an uncanny entrepreneurial streak that continues to this day. He learned early how to turn a nickel into a quarter. Almost from the start, music has been one of his most lucrative hustles.
Kahumoku (from right) plays with special guest Nathan Aweau and Slack Key Show co-host Shem Kahawai'i at the Napili Kai Beach Resort this past Wednesday. It was Kahumoku's last show before heading out on a 12-state, coast to coast tour. The long-running Slack Key Show runs every Wednesday, 6:30-8 p.m. Kahawai'i said he is set to steer the ship while Kahumoku is off spreading his aloha on the Mainland.
He says he was washing cars at Lippy Espinda’s used car lot after school when he happened into his first paying gig. Espinda’s lot was on Kalakaua Avenue, near where the Hawaii Convention Center now stands in Honolulu.
“First time I got paid, I was 11 years old,” Kahumoku said. “This was at the Forbidden City on Kalakaua. It was a strip joint from 10 o'clock at night until about 4 in the morning. But from 3 o'clock in the afternoon to 8 o'clock at night, that is where Kui Lee was playing.
“I was washing cars next door at Lippy Espinda’s used car lot. I was playing guitar during one of my breaks and Kui heard me. He asked me, ‘Hey, come inside and play one song for us.’ I said, ‘OK.’
“I’m kinda shy as a young kid. I take my slack key guitar and they mic it up. I do one of my grandfather’s slack key songs. The place was full of construction workers and carpenters drinking cheap beer and eating free salty food. That place was just packed.”
Kahumoku plays Wednesday at his Slack Key Show.
At Espinda’s, Kahumoku says he made a dime for each car he detailed and waxed for the popular TV pitchman credited with popularizing the shaka sign. The fastidious Espinda made little George earn every penny. The goal for Friday afternoons was 10 cars to earn a buck. On Saturdays, he put in 12 hours to hopefully do 30 vehicles and make three dollars.
The reaction to his song at Forbidden City opened his eyes to the power of music.
“I do one song, took me three minutes. Those guys, they throw money on that stage. I made $27.10.” Professionally, I wasn’t paid for the gig; I was paid in tips.”
Every once in a while, Lee would invite him over to play another song. Kahumoku says the paydays were usually similar to the first, or even better. The memory still brings a wide smile to his face.
Oregon fan Carl Christianson takes video as Kahumoku plays his ukulele following Wednesday's Slack Key Show at the Napili Kai Beach Resort. Christianson asked Kahumoku to autograph the instrument for him and ended up with a signature and a song.
Dr. Norman Estin of Kaanapali snaps a photo of Kahumoku and Christianson.
Born on the Big Island, Kahumoku and his 26 cousins were moved to Oahu by their great-grandparents while his father, George Kahumoku Sr., and uncles were working for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service on Kwajalein Atoll. The Kahumoku men were stationed there before and during the testing of nuclear bombs in the Marshall Islands.
“I have photos of him with no shirt on and glasses they made of Coke bottle bottoms with an atom bomb going off behind him,” Kahumoku said. “They didn’t know. Nobody knew what the hell it was.”
He said the deadly radiation exposure wasn’t limited to the air. When the thrifty Hawaiians saw dead fish floating ashore, they harvested them to cook, salt and smoke.
“He was radiated inside and out,” Kahumoku says. “My uncles too, they all died young. They didn’t even live to be 50 years old. They all died from radiation poison.
“That’s why we were raised by our great-grandparents. First, by our great-grandparents, and then, when they died, by our grandparents, and when they died, by aunties and uncles.”
The elders moved the kids to Oahu with hopes of enrolling them at Kamehameha School. Of the 26 cousins, George was one of two to be admitted. He says his graduating class of 1969 featured some “shakers and movers,” including Keola Beamer, Mililani Trask, Malama Solomon and Kali Watson. Just as he may not have been one of the top stars in school, he says he was middling among family members when it came to making music.
“I wasn’t even the best guitar player in my family,” Kahumoku said. “My younger brother was the best, Moses. And I had cousins who were even way better. I was probably like the 11th best player, but I was the guy who knew how to turn it into money. That’s the big difference. The other guys were shy and stuff like that. And they needed to drink or get loaded, get high before they could play, to get enough encouragement.
“I was always the underdog when I was little because I have asthma. And I always wanted to prove that, okay, you know, I can do this. And my sister still says, ‘til today, she says, ‘George the race is over, you already won.’ She’s trying to get me to slow down too. But I don’t know how to slow down.”
Wainani Kealoha performs a hula at the Slack Key Show to a song played by Nathan Aweau. She has been with the show since 2012 and says it is "an honor" to work with Kahumoku. "George cares, he cares about people, he cares about the land," Kealoha said. "He loves to take care of the homeless. He's really one of a kind. He'll help anybody."
Kealoha helps lead concert goers in singing Aloha 'Oe at the close of Wednesday's show at the Napili Kai Beach Resort on Maui.
Now 74 years old and sporting a pacemaker to help his heart keep time with his busy mind, Kahumoku’s schedule is frenetic as ever. Not only is he running a farm, playing four gigs a week and thinking about adding another show, he and his wife Nancy will soon be leaving on a 12-state tour that will see him do 22 events in four weeks. Traveling with them will be fellow Hawaiian slack key legends Herb Ohta Jr. and Sonny Lim. Kahumoku says they will do workshops and small performances by day and play larger venues in the evenings.
It will be a chance for folks from coast to coast to hear great Hawaiian music and, no doubt, be treated to heartfelt stories about the islands and the people of Hawaii. A storyteller at heart, Kahumoku loves to share tales of the past. They might be about Hawaiian legends, working as a welder on the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, or how he raised pigs and produce on the Big Island.
As for where he got his first name, he says it took a royal visit to learn the answer. Kahumoku said he was part of an entourage from Hawaii that traveled to London in 1977 for Queen Elizabeth II’s Silver Jubilee. For his part, he played her the song, “Queen’s Jubilee,” which had been written for Queen Victoria in 1887 by Hawaii's Princess Liliuokalani.
Later in the reception line when it was his turn to introduce himself, the queen repeated his name before shaking his hand. The next day, he says, he received a note from the queen expressing a desire to meet. A car was sent to fetch Kahumoku, and the next thing he knew, he was down in “the dungeons” exploring the royal archives with the monarch herself.
Wearing a mask and white gloves to preserve the fragile paper, Kahumoku was led to where the captain’s logs are kept. The queen explained that an important part of her education was studying the leather-bound, handwritten tomes penned by ship’s captains who roamed the planet in service of country, king and queen. One can only imagine the geography, history, economics, politics and other subjects to be gleaned from the crumbling pages.
Queen Elizabeth directed him to a particular log, one with a story from 1793 about a heroic young Hawaiian. The surname and hometown were spelled phonetically, but both were easily recognizable.
“In the book, it says there is a young Kahumoku who is a stowaway from Kealakekua,” Kahumoku said. “That’s where my family is from, Kona. There was a huge storm right out of Nova Scotia and what happened is, the first mate fell overboard. None of those sailors knew how to swim. They don't know how to swim because they don’t go into the ocean. Here’s young Kahumoku straight out of Kealakekua Bay. He knows how to swim, how to surf and everything. So, when the guy falls overboard, he jumps into the cold icy waters and saves the first mate and brings him aboard. When he reaches England, he is knighted ‘George’ by King George. King George knighted him after himself.”
The queen let the words from the yellowing pages sink in for a moment, then asked: “Are you related? Are you from Kealakekua?” To his affirmative, she continued, “Well, that was the first George Kahumoku. What number are you?”
The young Hawaiian musician said his father was number seven and one of his brothers was number eight, so that made him George IX.
He says the queen did more than share a bit of history. As with other invited nations and communities touched by the British Empire, the Hawaii contingent returned home with a cache of important historical artifacts that had been collected and sent to England through the centuries.
Kahumoku (from left) shares a break with farm helpers Leo Kalua'u and Pascual Lopez Kelilikane. "It's a blessing we have uncles like this who bring us back into the old ways," Kalua'u said. "He's not only a good guy, he's an inspiration to young men."
Kahumoku’s meeting with the queen can be chalked up to fate or coincidence, but so many of his connections happen because he seeks and nurtures them. What other musician do you know who displays guest books at their shows and then mails postcards to the mainland to let people know he is coming to their town? Who else invites audience members to their farm to help with the chores and share a meal?
“I think the big thing I want people to realize, I’m just an ordinary person who saw an opportunity to connect,” he said. “To help others connect with others and make something useful out of it. Come up with something that can help out each other.
“The money was never the bottom line. The first line is connection. Even with my cousins, I’m just an ordinary guy doing extraordinary things. But it’s not that extraordinary if you look around. Like, people’s lawns needed to be done, so I mowed yards. People needed ginger, so I raised ginger. Then the next thing you know, I’m selling them Chinese taro and then avocados. It’s just one thing rolls into the next. I didn’t plan any of it, that’s for sure. I just go with the flow.”
Kahumoku conducts a Hawaiian blessing at a tree-planting event in Wailuku in 2020.
When Kahumoku is on Maui and not on tour, he says he generally performs on Mondays at Pailolo Bar & Grill at the Westin Kaanapali Ocean Resort, Wednesdays at his own long-running Slack Key Show at the Napili Kai Beach Resort, Fridays at Kula Lodge and Saturdays at Leilani’s on the Beach in Kaanapali.
Going with the flow these days means that he and Nancy have put the Kahakuloa farm where they have lived for the past 22 years up for sale. Once it sells, a move to the mainland to be closer to their grandchildren is in the offing. As hard as it must be to leave behind all his trees, plants, friends, clients and neighbors, change has never frightened George Kahumoku Jr.
Perhaps it is because he never stops making connections, never stops learning and creating and never stops sharing his aloha.
To learn more about George Kahumoku's tour schedule, workshops, store, blog and how to connect, visit https://kahumoku.com.
George and Nancy Kahumoku share smiles during a community performance at a post-pandemic event in Lahaina in 2022. The Kahumokus are familiar faces at fundraisers and other Maui functions where they lend their talents to help others.
Merchandize available at Kahumoku shows includes books, CDs, artwork and sheet music to some of the several thousand songs and chants he has written through the years.
Kahumoku takes a photo of achiote, or red dye lipstick pods, growing on his farm. He said the pods are used to make Puerto Rican pasteles and gandule rice.
Kahumoku cups an edible nasturtium flower growing on his Kahakuloa farm.
Raindrops collect on the leaves of one of Kahumoku’s tapioca plants.
Kahumoku holds an Okinawan spinach leaf grown at his farm. He says the leaves are tasty eaten fresh, lightly poached or steamed. Spinach from his farm is featured on the menu at Hula Grill restaurant in Kaanapali, he said.
Poinsettia woes challenge college Ag students
One of the healthier poinsettia plants on display Saturday awaits the start of the annual fundraiser for the University of Hawaii Maui College’s Agriculture and Natural Resources Department.
Story and Photos
by Matthew Thayer
Walking a tightrope between feast and famine with every crop, farmers are some of the biggest gamblers on Earth.
There are no guarantees of a return when they lay down their money for seed and supplies. Nor when they put their hearts into planting and caring for whatever crop they are growing. If all goes well, the harvest comes in and they turn a profit. Maybe not as much as the middlemen and sellers down the road, but enough to get by. The gamble is that a single miscue or cruel twist of fate can mean the loss of all or most of that investment in money, hope and effort.
University of Hawaii Maui College (UHMC) Agriculture and Natural Resources students learned this lesson the hard way with this year's annual poinsettia-growing project. An assortment of challenges—ranging from insects and break-ins to a wonky irrigation system and holes in the greenhouse's roof—made the project to turn seeds into finished commercial products difficult from the start.
A sparse selection of spindly, marked-down poinsettia plants is what is left after the first wave of customers at the annual holiday plant sale.
The annual sale that culminates the project kicked off Thursday and concluded Saturday morning. While the fundraiser has always been one of the island's secret hacks to scoring the holiday season's biggest and healthiest poinsettia plants, this year's offering did not match those standards.
"Our greenhouse has been damaged by wind and other things," said Agriculture Department Lecturer Amy Cartwright. "We have a lot of holes that are letting in the insects. The wind blew over plants a lot, so you'd find them on the ground. So, we have had issues with whitefly and wind, and our irrigation system was being finicky."
A week before the sale, she said, disaster struck.
UHMC Lecturer Amy Cartwright tapes an updated price list to a greenhouse table Saturday. Four-inch potted plants were going for $6 and six-inch pots for $7.
"We show up after one day and nothing had been watered. And that's what happened with all of these. They were beautiful and then last week there's just no water. After one day."
Proceeds from the sale are traditionally pumped back into the Agriculture Department to support its programs and students. Along with poinsettias, this year’s sale also featured native plants and value-added products, such as bottles of student-processed honey. Saturday's event was part of a big day on campus, with the annual Maui Comic Con and UHMC Art Department Ceramics Sale also being held.
A morning rush of customers passes through the greenhouse after the gate is opened to start Saturday's public sale.
Unwilling to give up after their crop took its big hit, Agriculture Department staff, students and volunteers did their best with what was left.
"We started in the thousands," Cartwright said. "But it ended up with about 200 plants for each variety we planted." (About 1,200 spindly, heavily pruned plants.)
Agriculture and Natural Resources Program Coordinator Mach Fukada said the problems and the scramble to rebound provided valuable lessons.
"That's why this is for the students, they got to see the reality," Fukada said. "Everybody comes into ag with, as (former department head) Ann Emmsley would always say, 'rainbows and bluebirds and unicorns.' You think, oh yes, it's all sunshine and whatever, and they don't ever see the gritty underbelly. Oh man, failure is always an option. That is the reality. It is better for students to fail here than to fail on their own, and after they have invested lots of money and they're in the hole and losing. This is the perfect place."
Fukada said it is all about taking those lessons and moving forward.
"Failure is an opportunity to learn. In the real world, failure means: ‘oh, you lost money and now you're broke ass.’ That's the reality."
Second-year agriculture student Shauna Beaulieu puts a paper collar around a poinsettia plant for a customer Saturday.
Second-year agriculture student Shauna Beaulieu was part of the friendly crew helping customers in the greenhouse Saturday. A line of about 45 people streamed through the gate the moment it opened. One table held a cluster of pink poinsettias that seemed to have come through the many trials a bit healthier than their red and white cousins. Those were scooped up fast. Customers then began sorting through what was left.
"There were challenges the whole year," Beaulieu said. "We had to just maintain. It was learning about challenges and how to overcome. I think we cleaned it up pretty good."
UH-Maui junior Dylan Thompson wheels a cart of poinsettia plants to the checkout lane for a customer. Holes in the agriculture program's greenhouse roof and walls are visible in the background.
Kihei shopper Kathy Harman said she hits the sale every year.
"I want to support the school because they do a wonderful job," Harman said. "You want to support the school and support the community."
Fukada said the department hopes to "reskin" the greenhouse and redo the irrigation system soon. It also needs to fix its tractor, which was damaged by vandals who cut the diesel fuel line trying to steal what they probably thought was gasoline.
"We've had problems with people breaking in," Fukada said. "They cut the fuel line on the tractor and we have not been able to get that fixed."
The sale’s most presentable plants line the fronts of greenhouse tables before it opens to the public Saturday.
Cartwright said community members wishing to help the Agriculture Department could consider volunteering to help improve and clear outdoor farm field areas on the campus where native plants are to be planted. It could also use help collecting native seeds and planting them. She said the department is offering a tuition-free class next semester titled Weed Science, which will delve into the island's most problematic invasive plant species.
She said setbacks will not spell the end of the annual holiday plant sale.
"Hopefully we can get the greenhouse fixed and we can get the poinsettias looking great again," she said.
Maui's complicated love affair with tourism
A view from the sidelines
A commercial airliner is silhouetted by a Maui sunset. Airlines play an important role in Maui’s tourism-based economy.
Story and Photos by
By MATTHEW THAYER
It was obvious Maui tourism was in the middle of a growth spurt when I moved to the island as a young photojournalist in 1980, but I don't think any of us expected the visitor industry to burgeon so quickly into a global powerhouse.
In those days, sugar cane and pineapple plantations dominated the landscape. Farm machinery rumbled across roads and massive cane fires belched towering mushroom clouds of smoke. The middle of Kahului smelled like a pineapple thanks to Maui Pine's tin-roofed cannery.
Anyone on the Valley Isle who wanted a job could get one. Or two or three, for that matter. The service industry was already the island's biggest employer, but working at the mills and plantations was how many folks got ahead. Big agriculture provided training programs and avenues for advancement. Workers bought homes and put kids through college. There was hope that Maui's bucolic way of life could carry on forever.
Traffic stops as an empty Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Tournahauler lumbers across Mokulele Highway in 2011.
Smoke from a towering cane fire nearly blocks out the sun in 1999.
In hindsight, the plantations and tourism were already speeding in opposite directions, one elevator headed to the penthouse and another to the basement of history.
The posh Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa opened in Kaanapali in 1980, setting a new island standard for architectural scope and investment. My friends and I used to play tourist by lounging at the fancy pool with its waterfalls and grottos. The Hyatt's disco, Spats, was Maui's hottest spot to dance and party.
The island was transformed over the next 10 years. At the close of the 1980s, Maui was deep into a construction boom and tourism was its unquestioned economic driver. Major hotel and condo projects were either underway or wrapping up in Wailea, Kapalua and Kaanapali. The bedroom communities of Kahului, Wailuku and Kihei were exploding in size. West Maui, Pukalani, Haiku and Kula were also swelling to meet housing demands for both locals and the influx of newcomers.
With a miniscule unemployment rate and thriving economy, even with its plantations fading away, Maui had plenty of jobs to go around. Some were filled by immigrants from the Philippines and others by young Californians fresh out of school. Opportunity lured all sorts of people from around the world to Maui.
The opulent, art-filled Grand Wailea Resort reportedly cost Japanese developer, Takeshi Sekiguchi, $650 million to build when it opened in 1991. It sold in 1998 for a reported $263 million.
On the shoulders of this army of workers, new luxury properties like the Grand Wailea Resort, The Ritz-Carlton Maui Kapalua and Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea elevated Maui's worldwide reputation as a premier destination. Not only was it a beautiful, sunny island with amazing sights and beaches, the people were friendly and the service was outstanding. Properties enlisted some of the industry's top minds to run things. Workforce training was offered in high schools and the local community college. University of Hawaii Maui College's excellent culinary arts program continues to be a pipeline for young island chefs and bakers.
Starting at least as early as the 1980s, ad campaigns promoted Maui as "no ka oi." The best. The island began playing host to multiple televised sporting events each year, including professional golf, college basketball and football, world triathlon and surf championships. Spliced within the hundreds of free promotional hours were cutaway shots of humpback whales breaching, surfers riding giant aqua blue waves, sunrise at Haleakala and hula dancers performing at luaus.
Golf fans watch the SBS Tournament of Champions leaders approach the Kapalua Plantation Course's 18th green on the final day of the PGA tourney in 2010. The annual event held the first week of January every year is now sponsored by Sentry Insurance.
Cast members of the Old Lahaina Luau perform at halftime of a Maui Invitational mens college basketball game at Lahaina Civic Center in 2009.
The tourism concept first pitched to Mauians in the 1960s and '70s envisioned vacationers loosely corralled in resorts where they spent their time and money using amenities like golf courses, tennis courts, pools, spas, restaurants and nearby beaches. Impacts on the community would be limited. That hopeful notion was put on life support by millions of free and independent travelers bent on renting convertibles and Jeeps to explore the island. The publication of a bestselling book revealing all of Maui's secret hikes and haunts shoveled dirt over its grave.
Visitors in convertibles navigate winding Hana Highway in 2008. One far destination on the road, the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park, reports welcoming an average of 800,000 people a year, which equates to about 500 cars added to local traffic each day. The scenic drive is one of the most popular tourist activities on the island.
Tourism's impacts encroached even further afield when homeowners, often new buyers, began renting out their properties as bed and breakfasts. Quiet neighborhoods suddenly had loud parties at night. B&Bs were blamed for siphoning inventory out of an already stressed long-term rental market and for driving up rents and home prices.
The view near the 10,000-foot summit of Haleakala is overrun by sunrise viewers in 2007. Apart from pandemic and wildfire years, Haleakala National Park averages more than a million visitors a year to the mountaintop.
For as long as I have been on Maui, there have been concerned folks pushing back against the influx. People speaking out against overdevelopment, overtourism and losing old ways of life. They have been Hawaiian elders and activists, environmentalists, proponents of smart growth and just everyday citizens. Poring over legislative bills, sitting through countless hours of meetings, testifying and sometimes protesting, they felt a responsibility to advocate for the land and sea. To stand guard for long-buried ancestors. To protect the interests of generations to come.
The late Hawaiian elder and spiritual leader, Alice Kuloloio, speaks in defense of Hawaiian rainforests in 1989. She and her late son, Leslie Kuloloio, were part of a small, passionate wave of advocates to rise out of the 1970s and 80s. Standing up for the environment, sacred places, long-buried ancestors and the interests of future generations of Hawaiians, they challenged Maui's development boom, changing ways of life and sudden influx of people.
As a veteran journalist who worked for 44 years at The Maui News, I'd estimate that only a small percentage of the projects that faced opposition were completely stopped. Nearly every environmental impact study hearing I covered was eventually followed by a Hawaiian groundbreaking ceremony and then a grand opening blessing.
Money talks. Frustration mounts.
Wins for the opposition were often measured in concessions like workforce housing, coastal setbacks, public beach parking and open space. Meanwhile, flights and direct routes were added nearly every year to meet increasing demand.
The Ritz-Carlton Maui Kapalua was scheduled to be built along the ocean, but the discovery of a major Hawaiian burial site and the outcry it inspired, moved the project inland. The move was a victory for Hawaiian activists. It also cemented a positive relationship between the hotel and the Hawaiian community that continues to this day. This photo was taken in 2006.
California and Western Canada always provided steady winter visitors. Those were joined by guests from Japan, Europe and the rest of the Mainland. Maui's ebb and flow of "busy" and "slow" seasons melded into one yearlong steady season.
Maui tourism reached a tipping point in 2019. Following decades of steady growth, more than 3 million visitors came to the island to set an all-time one-year record. That is a lot of guests to welcome to a remote place where many of the 167,000 residents must work multiple jobs to make ends meet. Maui's roads, infrastructure and workforce were stretched to their breaking points.
Just as a backlash began to take hold in state and county governments, a worldwide pandemic abruptly showed everyone what Maui looks like without tourism. With empty beaches, highways and parks, the people of Maui had the island to themselves. There was time to step off the hamster wheel and live a simpler life, time to catch their breath and time to connect with family and close friends. On the flip side came the stark realities of boarded-up towns, failing businesses and high unemployment.
Lahaina's famed Front Street is deserted on an April day in 2020 as pandemic quarantine restrictions halt tourism and sequester all but Maui's "essential" workers at home. Three years later, on Aug. 8, 2023, these buildings would burn to the ground.
Some prognosticators predicted Maui's economy would need at least a decade to recover from the pandemic. Imagine their surprise when tourism roared back in 2022 to nearly equal the record numbers of 2019. The year 2022 saw 2,952,159 visitors to the island, with revenues reported at $5.82 billion. Again, there were cries of alarm, and again, the industry suffered a gut punch that ground it to a halt.
Fueled by winds gusting more than 70 mph on Aug. 8, 2023, wildfires decimated the beloved harbor town of Lahaina. Long the beating heart of Maui's visitor industry, Lahaina's historic center and most of its housing were reduced to squares of rubble and white ash. Fires that day also claimed a swath of homes in Upcountry Maui and were stopped just short of ravaging Kihei. Lahaina lost 102 lives and more than 2,200 homes, businesses and apartments. Some 10,000 people were displaced.
Two days after the windblown wildfires that decimated Lahaina, the harbor town continues to smolder in this photo taken Aug. 10, 2023. (The Maui News/MATTHEW THAYER photo)
It is impossible to explain such a complicated disaster in the space allowed, but in terms of tourism, it is fair to say the chaotic aftermath brought mixed messaging. At first, state and county officials urged visitors to stay away to give the island time to claim its dead and to get back on its feet. It was uplifting to see how the entire island stepped up to help. Assistance poured in from around the world.
Surviving West Maui hotels and businesses went above and beyond to house and feed those who had been displaced. As weeks stretched beyond a month, businesses on other parts of the island, some of them 40 to 70 miles away from Lahaina's burn zone, began asking officials to encourage visitors to return. The negative messaging was expanding the tragedy, they said.
Frustrated opponents of overdevelopment and overtourism tapped the worldwide focus on Lahaina to speak out and draw attention to their causes. Kaanapali Beach was occupied by a coalition demanding housing for all displaced residents. Videos circulating on the internet included at least one of an activist confronting and shaming elderly tourists on a Kapalua beach.
A sign posted near Mala Wharf in Lahaina this past June asks visitors to give residents privacy in their time of grief.
My cousin and his wife had to decide whether to cancel a long-booked hiking vacation on Maui set for six weeks after the fires. The things they saw online concerned them. Since I was in the community covering the story, they asked for my opinion.
West Maui was grieving and should be avoided, I explained. The whole island had been knocked sideways, but six weeks in, many businesses were open, particularly in East Maui, where they planned to spend their time. Respectful tourists would be appreciated, I said, adding that many guests had turned their vacations into volunteer opportunities during the recovery efforts. With so few visitors on the island, they would have the trails to themselves.
Out of an abundance of respectful caution, they elected to take a pass.
A year after its devastating wildfires, most of Lahaina's debris has been removed and its properties covered with a layer of gravel. Fronting the still-closed Lahaina Harbor are (from right): the cleared pads of King Kamehameha III Elementary School, Lahaina’s banyan tree sprouting green leaves, the shell of Old Lahaina Courthouse, the meager remains of the Pioneer Inn and Lahaina Public Library.
It has been more than a year since the fires. Great strides have been made with the recovery by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), American Red Cross, county and state government agencies and countless individuals and organizations. Nearly all of the Lahaina fire debris has been removed. There are signs of rebuilding in some neighborhoods. Enrollment in West Maui schools has reportedly dropped more than 20 percent, but the schools are open. Also open are resort properties and businesses down the coast in Kaanapali, Kahana, Napili and Kapalua.
Officials say Lahaina's commercial district could take years, maybe decades, to be replaced. The layout of the town and what it will look like has yet to be announced. There are many diverse ideas and interests at play. Some of the competing voices are quite passionate. Others work quietly behind the scenes.
What made Lahaina beloved by tourists went far beyond its clear blue ocean, majestic views, fine dining, historic sites and raucous watering holes. A walk down Front Street was a stroll in a simpler, slower time. Lahaina was colorful and funky, inhabited by an evolving cast of characters. Multimillionaire celebrities shopped for art alongside doughy Midwesterners in matching aloha wear. The harbor pulsed with life, especially during whale watching season or when big south swells drew surfers from around the island.
A former floating museum, the Carthaginian is towed away from Lahaina Harbor in 2005 on its way to being scuttled about a half mile offshore from Puamana. The 85-year-old boat spent 32 years berthed in Lahaina where it became a favorite subject for tourist snapshots, post cards, television videos and professional paintings. In the background is venerable Pioneer Inn, which was destroyed by fire in 2023.
Behind its laidback facade, Lahaina was a working-class town filled with working-class people. They took pride in their hometown's history and appreciated that they lived in one of Earth's special places. They cherished their high school football team, Lahainaluna's red-clad state champion Lunas, and still show rousing support for all the school's sports teams.
From housekeepers and cocktail servers to boat captains, store clerks and landscapers, a majority of the displaced Lahaina residents were employed, directly or indirectly, by the visitor industry. The devastation forced many to relocate to other parts of the island, the state or overseas. The result has been long commutes for workers and tight staffing for employers.
As of this writing, Maui's tourism has recovered a bit, but numbers continue to lag far below the overheated years of 2019 and 2022. An industry executive speaking recently about target occupancy said "80 percent is the new 100 percent" for island resorts. Properties do not have enough staffing to accommodate full houses, she said.
Surplus rental cars are parked in a field on the perimeter of Kahului Airport this week. In the background is shuttered Puunene Mill, which ceased sugar processing operations in 2016. At the start of the pandemic in March of 2020, more than 20,000 idled rental vehicles were parked in fields and parking lots around the airport and the town of Kahului. Many, if not most, were shipped back to the Mainland in the ensuing months, leaving rental companies short of stock when tourism roared back in 2022.
Prices that rose for rooms, meals and activities during the dog days of the pandemic seem to have only gone higher. Maui has always prized its outsized number of repeat guests. Travelers fell in love with the island and just kept coming back. As prices rise, it risks becoming a once-in-a-lifetime visitor destination.
Three million visitors a year was not sustainable before the fires, and it is certainly not afterwards. Maui faces many social, infrastructure and economic challenges in the years to come. Already in a housing crunch, the fires exacerbated the issue. In response, county officials have proposed a ban on short-term rentals in neighborhoods and traditional long-term rental properties. This could affect up to 7,000 units. With so much on the line for B&B investors and property owners, the issue seems destined to end up in the courts.
Indiana dad Mike Ripley poses for a selfie with daughter Katlyn Ripley during a visit to Haleakala National Park in March of 2023.
Visitors to the summit at Haleakala National Park hike Sliding Sands trail in March of 2023.
The $5.8 billion question is whether travelers who have so many choices in the world will pick Maui as it wobbles through the second year of its recovery. Small business owners I know are hoping they do. And they're not the only ones. With its trickle-down economic effect, tourism provides the island's lifeblood for much of its public and private spending.
Even the most vocal opponents of overtourism might grudgingly agree that some level is necessary—with caveats, of course. They would remind visitors to be mindful of what was lost and to respect the privacy of those who were displaced or still grieving. They would ask guests to treat the island as the spiritual place it is. Take time to learn about the host culture. Leave light footprints.
Though Maui has taken a terrible wallop, its track record says tourism is not to be counted out. Despite its many challenges, the island remains an attractive destination. Its beaches are still pristine, the whales come back each winter, the sun still shines, the trade winds still blow and its hospitality industry still takes pride in showing appreciative guests a good time.
Among the bumps the visitor industry must navigate on its road back are rising vacation prices, government intervention and worker shortages spawned by Maui's lack of housing and soaring cost of living. The working class is finding it increasingly difficult to live here. Many have elected to leave and others are considering it.
As with many love affairs, Maui's relationship with tourism has had its ups and downs. At its best, tourism is a clean industry that injects billions of dollars into the economy without extracting much in the way of natural resources. People arrive, spend their money, have a good time and go home. Ideally, they learn to embrace the Aloha Spirit while they're here and take some of that positivity and understanding back from whence they came.
Clear mountain water flows over leaves in Wailuku River in 2008 in Iao Valley. On an island where drought is common, and where a Maui County Stage One water shortage is currently in place asking residents and businesses to conserve at least 10 percent of usage, the vital resource is expected to play an increasing role in determining how much development gets built and where.
Usually packed Kaanapali Beach is virtually empty in September of 2023, one month after the wildfires that destroyed most of nearby Lahaina town.
At its worst, tourism becomes a parasite that overruns its host. Think of 3 million visitors a year and imagine that number continuing to rise unchecked.
As the world's population grows, so does the demand for travel. Can the state and county governments provide meaningful and enforceable guardrails? Will local adversaries make enough noise to cause travelers to think twice? Or will market forces, such as a lack of workforce housing, astronomical room rates and diminished services, do the job for them by driving visitors elsewhere?
Those types of thoughts make some business and community leaders queasy. Ditto for the investors around the world who own Maui’s resort properties and trade them like Monopoly pieces.
With such a track record, it is tough to bet against Maui's allure, but the island faces serious challenges, including an overdue reckoning with its long, complicated love affair with tourism. It appears unlikely the industry will ever experience the sort of unchecked growth it had in the past. There isn't enough water, workers or infrastructure to sustain such development.
Of course, that's what we all thought in 1980.
Persimmon harvest a Kula family tradition
It all begins with an idea.
Sliced in half, persimmons reveal a star-like center. The seasonal fruit are about the size of a tomato and taste a bit like a cross between an apple and a cantaloupe.
Story and Photos by
By MATTHEW THAYER
There is a shiver in the dewy mountain air. Leaves are turning to orange and ripening fruit hangs heavy in the orchard. If not for the blue ocean views and neighbor islands in the distance, it could be mistaken for an autumn morning in Vermont or Oregon.
The annual persimmon harvest is underway at the Upcountry Maui farm founded a century ago by Shinhichi Hashimoto. According to family lore, Shinhichi was a Japanese immigrant aboard a boat headed for Oahu when his plans were upended by the Bubonic plague. Shinhichi was expecting to work on one of Oahu's plantations, but that island was gripped by an outbreak of the plague and his boat was detoured to Hana. He eventually wound up in Kula where he bought land on steep Pulehuiki Road to begin the farm that now encompasses Hashimoto Persimmon Products.
Clark Hashimoto loads buckets of persimmons into the bed of an ATV while harvesting in October.
Shinhichi planted his first persimmon trees around 1925. His son, Isami, expanded the farm, eventually gambling his family’s future on 500 spindly starts that had to be watered by hand with buckets carried up and down Haleakala's dusty flanks. Either Isami did his homework, or he got lucky, because Kula’s climate, altitude and soil have proven perfect to grow persimmons. Now, more than 80 years later, about 99 percent of the persimmons grown in the state of Hawaii come from the same square Kula mile, all raised by Hashimoto descendants and their neighbors.
Wet from an overnight rain, persimmons are ready to be harvested on a sunny morning at Hashimoto Persimmon Products farm in Kula.
One of those descendants, Clark Hashimoto, operates Hashimoto Persimmon Products with his wife, Jackie. The two-month harvest season was at its peak and the production shed's phone nearly ringing off the hook on a recent October day as Clark carried in buckets of just-picked fruit for Jackie to begin sorting. It has been nearly 20 years since the pair retired from their day jobs to take over full-time farm operations from Clark's elderly parents.
Drawing comparisons to autumn in New England, the leaves on Kula's persimmon trees turn orange before falling off each year.
While they can count on some weekend help from their kids and grandkids, most farm duties fall to them. During a harvest expected to produce about 30,000 pounds of persimmons, that's a lot of work. Thankfully, family reinforcements from California and Nevada have arrived to ease some of the load.
Helping Clark harvest fruit this day are an uncle, Jack Fucik of Reno, and a distant cousin, Rich Arita of Berkeley. Picking from some of the oldest trees on the property, they use sharp clippers to cut the stems before slipping apple-sized fruit into cloth bags strapped over their shoulders. Once full, the bags can be opened at the bottoms to allow the loads to easily be deposited into five-gallon buckets. The drooping limbs of the low, century-old trees are supported by wooden braces to keep them from snapping under the weight of so much fruit.
California cousin Rich Arita helps pick persimmons at Hashimoto Persimmon Products in October 2024.
Downhill, in the venerable packing shed where generations of Hashimotos have processed untold tons of persimmons through the years, Jackie is working alongside her aunt, Eileen Fucik. Between taking phone orders and servicing walk-up customers, they grade and pack persimmons. Some boxes are bound for a restaurant and others for a kombucha bar that annually offers a persimmon brew.
Jackie Hashimoto (left) and aunt Eileen Fucik sort persimmons in the Hashimoto Persimmon Products packing shed in October.
This is the third year Eileen and Jack have flown in from Reno to assist.
"We found out the two of them were doing this themselves and we thought, oh, we'll come help," Eileen said.
The Maui High School Class of 1961 graduate said it is satisfying to get in touch with her island roots. "It's warming. It's good to be here and helping family. Now we have more time to spend with each other. We laugh and talk story."
Jackie, who taught high school for 30 years, including 23 at Baldwin High School, has expanded the farm's repertoire to include value-added products,such as persimmon jam, scones, preserved mui, totes and logo wear. No wonder she has big plans for two cousins from California scheduled to arrive later in the day.
Jackie Hashimoto holds one of her homemade scones and a package of dried persimmon energy bars.
Jars of persimmon jam and persimmon butter are on display at Hashimoto Persimmon Products in October.
"We just can't wait for them to come," Jackie said. "I have jobs for them to do. They'll be in my kitchen for a week baking scones and making energy bars."
She said there is quite a difference between creating a few items to display for walk-in customers and meeting outsized demand when a product becomes popular.
"I have an order for 50 scones and I'm not a bakery," Jackie said with a laugh.
Clark Hashimoto uses a ladder to reach ripe fruit while harvesting persimmons with Jack Fucik in October.
Prior to retiring at age 55, Clark was an extension agent for the University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. After years of giving farmers advice, he now toils on the front lines. The result has been a blend of putting his own concepts to work and drawing upon a deep reservoir of family experience. He says harvest season invariably conjures memories of his late parents, John and Hanako Hashimoto, and his grandfather, Isami.
"They've been the backbone for the family," Clark said. "They sent five of us to college, four on the mainland. They worked very hard for us to get an education, for us to be really successful. I think they were proud of what they did. Mom was working until she was 96."
Late persimmon farm owners John and Hanako Hashimoto take a break from packing and sorting to pose for a photo in 2011.
John was one of the pioneers of the Maui Farmers Cooperative Exchange and played an important role in developing Maui agriculture. Hanako was honored as a "living legend" by the Maui Farm Bureau in 2016.
Clark said it is too early to tell if the next generation will take over the reins someday, but for now, he and Jackie are happy to carry the torch.
"It's been going on for four generations, 100 years, so it's a tradition that we like to carry on," he said. "We've got to see if the younger generation, see if they can carry on. They're too young to retire yet."
With the West Maui Mountains and the islands of Lanai and Molokai providing a backdrop, the persimmon trees at Hashimoto Persimmon Products in Kula (foreground) are so loaded with fruit their limbs must be supported by wooden frames.
The family support imported from the mainland provides a very welcome boost, he said.
"This is their third year. They look forward to it, actually. It gives us a chance to get together for one week. They help a lot. Without them, it would be that much harder for the two of us. We appreciate their help very much."
Clark said he expects this year's harvest to finish by mid- to late November. The farm is located at 1378 Pulehuiki Rd. Phone orders can be placed by calling (808) 856-0065.
Just downhill from Clark and Jackie's farm is Hashimoto Kula Persimmons & Cherimoya, which also sells fruit to walk-in customers and by phone order.
Raindrops cling to a Kula persimmon in October.
Racks of persimmon slices dry in one of the packing shed's dehydrators.
A ripe persimmon is ready to be picked at Hashimoto Persimmon Products in Kula.
South Maui Bicycles has new home
South Maui Bicycles lead mechanic Zak Williams adjusts a wheel.
Photos by Matthew Thayer
South Maui Bicycles has moved to a new and more spacious home.
After spending its first 34 years of business across from Kalama Park, the Maui family-owned business has relocated to 1215 South Kihei Road next to Longs Drugs. South Maui Bicycles is a full service shop, with sales, service and rentals. Its friendly and helpful staff also organize the Maui Century Ride.
South Maui Bicycles is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Saturday. A sale on bikes and accessories is scheduled to continue through Black Friday, Nov. 29.
Note: Shop owner Frank Hackett is one of my oldest friends on the island. He mentioned he would like to do a press release about the move and I stopped by to take some environmental portraits for him. These are a few of the shots.
Head salesperson Jimmy Hackett helps Sabrina Reed of Folsom, Ca., shop for riding attire.
Shop manager Jeffery Chapman describes two hot-selling items, a GPS cycling computer and a rear radar system.
Shop staff said this bright Haleakala cycling jersey is their fastest-selling piece of apparel.
The new location is in the same shopping center as Longs Drugs on South Kihei Road.
Longtime South Maui Bicycles owner Frank Hackett poses in the new shop with staffers Zak Williams (from left), son Jimmy Hackett and Jeffery Chapman.
2024 Makawao Stampede
Photos from the 2024 Makawao Stampde.
Branco and Kehano win all-around honors at annual rodeo
All-Around Cowboy Bronson Branco and All-Around Cowgirl Kalena Kehano pose with their 2024 4th of July Makawao Stampede championship saddles at Oskie Rice Arena in Olinda. Additional photo captions may be found at the bottom of the page.
Photos by Matthew Thayer
The annual Makawao Stampede held this past July at Oskie Rice Arena in Olinda featured $80,000 in cash prizes and drew cowboys and cowgirls from around the state, the country and even a few from Down Under. Bronson Branco took All-Around Cowboy honors and Kalena Kehano earned the All-Around Cowgirl title.
Kanoa Awai-Dickson heads to a win in Sunday's Steer Wrestling final.
Tyler Ferguson posts an 81-point ride in Bareback Bronc Riding Sunday.
A competitor ropes a steer in Sunday's final.
Bareback Bronc Riding champion Darien Johnson looks to the Oskie Rice Arena crowd as he takes a victory lap Sunday.
Rodeo clown Cody Sosebee channels his inner Elvis Sunday.
Elizabeth Miranda wins Sunday's Match Barrel Race final against Jayci-Jay Rice.
Hunter Cavitt hangs on tight in the Sheep Riding competition Saturday.
Sheep rider Temanu Brown, 6, is congratulated by mom Kainoa Brown after his go Saturday.
Mugging champions Daniel Miranda (right) and Jaymes McGregor close in on a winning time Sunday.
Kalena Kehano posts a time of 2.48 to win Wahine Breakaway Roping on her way to claiming the All-Around Cowgirl title.
A bullfighter helps clear a bull from the arena after it tossed its would-be rider Sunday.
Retired six-time world Bareback Bronc Riding champion Kaycee Field gives daughter Remy Field, 5, a high-five after her go in Sheep Riding Saturday at Oskie Rice Arena.
Teams of cowboys on foot compete in Wild Cow Milking Sunday.
Teams of cowboys on foot chase some truly wild cows in Sunday's Wild Cow Milking event Sunday at Oskie Rice Arena.
Bull Riding champion Westin Joseph battles to stay aboard a leaping, twisting bull Sunday.
Lea Barlett rides to a time of 18.62 in Sunday's Wahine Barrel Racing final.
A bullrider breaks from the bucking chute Saturday.
Bronson Branco goes for the heel shot while teaming with Rory Souza to post a fast time of 6.91 seconds in Sunday's Dally Team Roping final. Branco went on to claim Al-Around Cowboy honors. The Dally Team Roping event was won by the father and son duo of Ethan and Chris Awa.
Bareback Bronc Riding champion Darien Johnson rides to an 84-point winning score Sunday.
Savannah Gooding rounds a barrel while posting a time of 19.72 in Junior Barrel Racing Saturday.
Chance Frost posts a score of 65 points in Saddle Bronc Riding Sunday.
Barrel racer Jayci-jay Rice streaks to the finish line in a Match Barrel Race Saturday.
CR Wilken (right) and Wes Goodrich compete in Dally Team Roping Sunday.
Wahine Barrel Racing champion Rachel Cockett rounds a barrel Sunday.